Fish Out of Water
Musings about life & travel from an East Coast native living on the Left Coast in the CA State Capitol since 2004 and now also spending time at a home-away-from-home in Evanston, IL. This fish has lived in Madison, WI (7 years); Portland, OR (2 years); Las Vegas, NV (7 months); Middlebury, VT (3 summers); Marne-la-Vallee, a small town east of Paris, France (6 months); Middletown, CT (3 years); & Marshfield, MA, the fish's coastal hometown 40 miles south of Boston (17 years).
5.29.2018
5.23.2018
Mahalo Moment: Urban Fowl During Morning Commute
Awesome new bike lanes
for riding to work. Whoa! That's
a big wild turkey!
5.21.2018
Mahalo Moment: Avian Water Landing
McKinley Park pond --
Canadian Geese glide in
synchronized landing.
Flutter of wings as
webbed feet skim the surface. Six
geese, in harmony.
5.16.2018
Waterways of Holland & Belgium (End of Trip)
Thursday, May 10:
AMS > DUB > BOS > SMF
For the daily excursions, we used devices called
“Quiet Vox” that allowed us to hear our local guides through a remote system
with an earpiece. This made the tours much easier, as we didn’t have to huddle
close to the guide to hear and could even range as much as 2 blocks away from
the transmitter and still hear all of the commentary.
I was up at 5:15am to fit in a workout before needing to put
my bag outside the cabin for pick-up at 6:30am. I kept my yoga mat, though, and
did my daily practice before packing up the last of my stuff into my back-pack
and heading to the restaurant to grab some snacks for breakfast later. Our
airport transfer group left the ship at 7:15am, but we didn’t make it to the
airport terminal until nearly 8:30am due to an accident that resulted in
closure of one lane on the approach road to the terminals. Yikes! Just over an
hour to check in our bags, get our boarding passes, go through passport control
and security, and make it to the gate. Good thing we were able to get some
assistance and jump on a little electric cart or we might not have made it on
time!!
Our transfer in Dublin was less stressful but still a bit
tight on time, primarily due to the need to pass through U.S. Pre-Clearance in
Dublin prior to boarding the flight. This meant that we didn’t need to clear
customs when we landed in Boston, which is somewhat convenient but definitely
added more time to the overall transfer process. So glad we were in Business
Class and could get comfy during the flight! Mom read and slept and played
games on her Kindle, and I watched 3 movies (“Molly’s Game,” “Justice League,”
and “Father Figures”) during the 6+ hour flight. We arrived on time in Boston
and claimed our bags. Then we parted outside by the limos when Mom met her ride
home to Marshfield, and I came back inside to check in for my Jet Blue flight
back home to Sac.
Since I had several hours to wait, I purchased the $40 day
pass at the Aer Lingus lounge where Mom and I had waited for our outbound
flight in order to have a quiet spot to do some email and blogging and take
advantage of the complimentary food and drinks. Unfortunately, my return flight
to Sac was delayed nearly 2 hours, but I made it home to see Mr. E and the
kitties, unpack, and go to bed by about 11:30pm. Yawn…
Interesting Facts
about The Netherlands
We learned lots of information and history about both
Belgium and The Netherlands during the trip. A few facts that struck me:
- The Netherlands is the tallest nation in the world, although no one knows exactly why.
- Holland is actually the name of two provinces – South Holland & North Holland – that are home to the biggest cities, most important port, and capitol of the country.
- In total, The Netherlands is composed of 12 provinces, 1 of which is relatively new, and each has its own government, which makes political life quite complex.
- The majority of land in The Netherlands has been “reclaimed” by creating a series of canals and dikes in order to dry out the land, meaning that most of the country is anywhere from 4 to 22 meters BELOW sea level. Yikes! Hence the local saying that “God created the world, but the Dutch created The Netherlands.”
Characteristics of
Shipboard Life
Anytime we left the boat, we had to turn in our key at
Reception in exchange for a boarding pass. We then reversed the exchange when
we returned to the boat. This system helps the crew to ensure that all
passengers are on board before sailing to the next destination.
Each activity was announced by the Cruise Director, Amalia,
over the PA system. This included a daily wake-up greeting that started off
with soothing music and the sound of birdcalls! Every evening, a daily program
was left in our rooms during the afternoon turn-down service, and the program
included a schedule of activities, information about our excursions, and the weather
prediction for the next day. We also had a “port talk” each evening to provide
details about the next day’s events.
As mentioned in an earlier post, the lengthy dinners were a
bit challenging for me. Breakfast was always a buffet, so that could be
accessed and eaten in a more timely fashion. And for our shipboard lunches, Mom
and I always opted for the “quick lunch” buffet in the lounge instead of the
sit-down meal in the restaurant. But we didn’t have that option for dinner, so
we had to join others for the 4-course meal, although we both usually skipped
the 2nd course of a warm appetizer and just had the salad, entrée,
and dessert. Even so, this process usually lasted for 2+ hours, which was just
too much. I did appreciate, however, that the kitchen was able to accommodate
my dietary restrictions, and the maître d’, Cosmin, checked in with me each
morning to review the day’s selections and make sure I’d have something to eat.
Although the description and diagram of the boat showed a
Fitness Center, I stuck with YouTube videos in my room for my daily workouts, with
the exception of the days that I went for a run. The Fitness Center was on two
levels and had lovely windows but minimal equipment, and the treadmill was out
of order for several days.
The housekeeping staff was very attentive, servicing the
rooms in the morning and afternoon. And during the latter part of the voyage,
we found awesome towel creations in our cabins each evening:
Waterways of Holland & Belgium (Day 8)
Wednesday, May 9: Keukenhof
Gardens & Amsterdam
I went for a run this morning and got to see some of the
newer parts of Amsterdam along the same route that we traveled to De Kas last
night. Morning yoga again in anticipation of a likely late-ish farewell dinner
this evening. Our excursion to Keukenhof Gardens had an early start, as we
boarded the coaches at 8am, so I grabbed some breakfast snacks to eat on the
way. Our guide explained how the Gardens are only open to the public 7-8 weeks
each year, during the time that the tulips are in bloom.
The majority of the flowers are grown in order to cultivate
and harvest the bulbs, while those grown for cut flowers are tended inside
greenhouses instead of in the landscaped gardens. Several pavilions are
scattered throughout the gardens as well, each with a shop, restaurant, and flower
show highlighting different varieties, such as lilies and orchids. I’ve never
seen blue orchids before!!!
After a short tour with our guide through part of the
gardens, we were on our own to explore for another 3 hours, so we meandered around
and into several of the pavilions. Mom ordered some bulbs to be delivered later
this year, and we finished up with a light snack at the pavilion nearest the
main entrance, where we met up with our group at 11:45am. By that time, the
parking lot was overflowing with buses and people, so we were all quite pleased
that we’d gotten an early start.
We had the “quick lunch” in the lounge once we got back to
the boat, and then I headed off around 2pm to visit the Jewish Historical
Museum. Although the temperature wasn’t as high today, I still got rather warm
walking through the city, as the clothes I packed really weren’t intended for
70s and 80s! I tried to keep in the shade as much as possible and cooled down
with another iced Americano from the Starbucks in the Doubletree Hotel near
where our boat was docked.
When I got back to the ship, I paid for my incidentals and
got packed and organized and ready for the morning. We had a farewell reception
at 6pm in the lounge followed by the farewell dinner in the restaurant. These
gatherings provided an opportunity to meet and recognize all of the crew. They
all work so hard and have very long days. And they don’t even get a break
before the next tour begins the afternoon that our tour ends. Wow. Not a job
that would suit me! Dinner flowed a bit more quickly this evening, so we were
able to take our leave before 9:30pm and get to bed at a reasonable time in
anticipation of the early morning wake-up and departure tomorrow.
5.15.2018
Waterways of Holland & Beligum (Day 7)
Tuesday, May 8:
Amsterdam
Workout. Quick breakfast in the restaurant. Up to the lounge
for a disembarkation briefing and then a short walk down the pier to the
waiting canal cruise boats for our morning canal tour of Amsterdam. Our boat is
docked right near the central train station and nestled among an entire clan of
riverboats, including the Amadeus Silver III.
The canal cruise was a great introduction to the layout of
the city as well as some of the history and culture.
I had grabbed
one of the small city maps at reception and was able to trace our canal cruise
route on the map, which really helped to orient me to the city and to note the
location of a few potential sites of interest for later in the day. Very bright
sun. Quite warm.
When we returned to the boat, we dropped off a few things in
our cabins and then asked the reception staff to call a taxi to take us to the
Rijksmuseum. As we waited, we encountered another couple whom we’d met
previously who were headed to the Van Gogh Museum, so I suggested we share the
taxi since the two museums are just a block apart from each other. Our taxi
arrived promptly, and we made arrangements for a pick-up at 2pm to go back to
the boat.
I had purchased tickets in advance, based on what I’d read
in several guidebooks about long lines, but there was actually hardly any line
at the museum at all. Still nice to have the tickets already, though, so that
we could just head to the 2nd floor to admire the collection of
works by Dutch Golden Age painters, including Vermeer and Rembrandt. We also
enjoyed the dollhouses, a few Impressionists, and Delft porcelain.
Lunch was in the Het Café, overlooking the main lobby area in a lovely
light-filled mezzanine.
Mom had the special creamy white asparagus
soup, and I had a smoked salmon plate with a glass of rose.
Our return taxi pick-up was right on time, and we had a
rather adventurous journey through the streets (and over the sidewalks) of the
central city. I got dropped off near the Katten Kabinet, and Mom and the other
couple continued on back to the boat. I had read about the Katten Kabinet in my
Lonely Planet guide, and although it wasn’t a typical museum, it was quite fun
to see the eclectic collection of cat artwork.
About a block away, I visited the Museum of Bags &
Purses, which was quite wonderful. It started as a private collection and then
moved to this old canal house in 2007. The newest exhibit on the top floor has
some bags and purses from as far back as the 17th century, and this
part of the museum just opened about two weeks ago. I was fascinated to learn
about the history of various types of bags and purses, not to mention the
diverse techniques and materials utilized to create these functional works of
art.
I navigated my way back to the ship, stopping for an iced
Americano at a Starbucks along the way. After a very-needed shower (mid 80s
today!!!), I met up with Mom for the evening lecture about contemporary
Holland. Then we joined the rest of the Smithsonian group for dinner out at De
Kas, a farm-to-fork restaurant where much of the food served is grown on-site.
We had a lovely and inventive five-course dinner, and the kitchen was very
accommodating of my allium allergy. Yay!
Dinner finished up rather late, so we didn’t get back to the
ship until close to 10:30pm. Luckily, I’d planned ahead and incorporated yoga
into my morning workout, so I could just go right to bed.
Waterways of Holland & Belgium (Day 6)
Monday, May 7:
Giethoorn & Kampen
Another room workout and a plate of breakfast to enjoy in
the lounge during the third and final lecture by Stephen. This presentation
focused on Dutch Golden Age painting and provided a very interesting and
helpful overview of the primary painters of that time whose work influenced the
development of what we might now consider modern painting.
We then headed to the coaches for our morning excursion to
Giethoorn, a town of about 2,600 residents that currently receives nearly 1
million tourists each year. Yikes! The town is built around a series of small
canals, linked by lots and lots of bridges, and has very limited vehicle access
of any kind.
We were distributed among three canal boats for a
cruise through the area and onto the man-made lake nearby. The tour included a
stop of about 45 minutes in the town itself so that we could walk around a bit
and browse some of the shops. The weather was beautiful for this tour, and we
were lucky that our excursion was during the week as our guide described how
crazy-busy the weekends can be.
Everyone returned to the boat for a traditional Dutch food
lunch buffet, which included lots of different types of sausages as well as a
carving station with a roast pig, prime rib, and chicken. Luckily, there were
also some vegetables available in addition to all of the meat-focused dishes.
And the dessert station included waffles with various toppings. In
mid-afternoon, I joined the short guided tour of Kampen, where we were docked
for the day.
I then explored further on my own, taking care of a few
errands and almost buying some warm-weather clothes, since the weather had been
turning unexpectedly warmer than what had been forecast when I was packing last
week!
When I got back to the boat in time for our late afternoon departure,
I relaxed for a bit in my room and then headed up to the Panorama Lounge for
some blog work and planning for the next two days in Amsterdam. I had no desire
for another long dinner experience, so I had grabbed some Wasa crispbreads and
peanut butter from breakfast, which was totally sufficient for a light snack,
along with the white wine that had been waiting in my room when we arrived
(still don’t know why, but I’m not complaining!). Mom ended up joining me in
the lounge after she got the first course salad from the restaurant, and it was
quite lovely to have such a nice quiet and peaceful dinner together while we
sailed. We both headed down to our cabins before 9pm, where I did my yoga
practice and then went to bed.
5.14.2018
Waterways of Holland & Belgium (Days 4 & 5)
Saturday, May 5:
The Delta Works
Another round of morning Zumba in my room, and then Mom and
I met up at 7:45am to get some breakfast from the restaurant to bring upstairs
to the lounge so that we could listen to the first of three lectures on
medieval and renaissance Dutch art by Stephen Clancy, a recently retired art
history professor from Ithaca College who is traveling with the Smithsonian
group as our resident “expert.” The first lecture was about the rise of the
merchant class and the impact of that societal evolution on medieval and
renaissance city life. He’s a very engaging and passionate lecturer, so I
really enjoyed his presentation, which finished up just after 9am, so we had a
bit of time prior to our 9:30am departure to visit The Delta Works.
Our first stop was at The Delta Experience, where we watched
a [rather dated] movie about the horrible storm and North Sea flooding in 1953
that was the catalyst for beginning an extensive array of public works projects
to better protect areas along the western coastline. The movie described in
detail how the various locks and barriers were designed, constructed,
installed, and tested. Truly a technological marvel and a critical piece of
Dutch infrastructure that continues to be refined today. The last part was
completed in 1986, and this is a long barrier composed of multiple piers with
steel gates between them that can be lowered in times of severe weather.
Our next stop on the tour was a visit to this barrier, where
we were able to walk inside to view some historical exhibits and learn more
about the entire project. We then climbed up onto the top of the barrier
itself, right next to the roadway, where we had a close-up view of the
structure and the marking on the pier that shows how high the waters rose in 1953.
The coaches took us back to the boat for lunch, where Mom
and I opted for the “quick lunch” in the lounge rather than a full-service meal
in the restaurant. I then did a bit of email and blog work for about an hour
before heading out on a run through the lovely little town of Veere, where our
boat was docked. The town is criss-crosssed with lots of well-marked walking
trails in addition to the usual bike lanes and paths, and given the unusually
beautiful weather (sunny & high 70s), there were lots and lots of people
enjoying the outdoors and the town’s café, beach, and marina.
I was back on board the boat in plenty of time for our
4:15pm departure, so Mom and I went up to the lounge to hear a talk on
“tulipmania” by Andrew Wyatt, a professor traveling with the Missouri Botanical
Gardens group. Then we headed down to dinner and enjoyed some interesting
conversation with the two Cal alumni folks whom I’d met during the Beer tour in
Bruges as well as two other new-to-us people from the Botanical Gardens group
(I think). Dinner once again took 2+ hours for the entire service, but I still
fit in my daily yoga practice before going to bed.
Sunday, May 6:
Delft & The Hague
More Zumba in the room followed by take-away breakfast from
the restaurant so that I could eat while listening to the second of Stephen
Clancy’s lectures. This one focused on “magical realism” in art and was equally
as fascinating as the first presentation yesterday. Mom had breakfast in the
restaurant with Stephen’s wife before joining me in the lounge for the talk. We
again had a bit of time before the 9:30am departure for the day’s excursion.
Our initial destination today was the Royal Porcelain
Factory in Delft. We drove through charming countryside full of farms set in
the midst of little canals, almost like marshes, and each home was connected to
the roadway by a small bridge. The fields were full of different types of water
fowl, including lots of nesting swans. I was struck again by the vast bike
infrastructure in The Netherlands, as every roadway has a parallel bike lane
beside it, well-separated, well-marked, and well-traveled. I also observed that
each roundabout in a certain area was marked with a sculpture of some kind in
the middle, which continues the trend of public art that I’d started to notice
during the previous days.
Once we arrived at the factory, a staff guide led us through
as we learned about the history of Delft blue and Delft porcelain in general as
well as the different processes for creating hand-painted vs. mass-produced
objects. The skill and time needed for the former definitely make it much of
much higher quality and more valuable, which is clearly reflected in the price.
Mom and I each bought some souvenirs, and we then got back
on the bus for the short drive to the main center of Delft. Coaches can’t drive
into that area due to the small streets, so we got dropped off nearby and then
walked slowly towards the main square, which is flanked by a church and an
ornate town hall and surrounded by souvenir shops and restaurants. We had a bit
more of a guided tour around the square and were then on our own for just under
2 hours to get lunch and enjoy the area. More public art!
I noticed a little spot nearby called Happy Tosti that
looked casual and inviting, and we had a lovely (and relatively quick!) lunch
there of toasted sandwiches. We also learned that it’s a business with heart
and a mission that’s not just about profits:
The group met up at 2:30pm by the church to go back to the
coaches for the return drive to the boat. I walked around the nearby town of
Schoonhoven for a bit, and then Mom and I joined Stephen’s table for dinner,
per the invitations that had been delivered last night. I enjoyed the
conversation, but again the overall experience was just too lengthy, especially
with pauses for two birthday breaks. Mom and I finally were able to excuse
ourselves and head back to our cabins. Yoga. Bed.
5.13.2018
Waterways of Holland & Belgium (Day 3)
Friday, May 4:
Bruges & Beer
We had an early start today, with departure on the coaches
at 8am. I was up by 6:15am for Zumba in my room (wi-fi working pretty well so
far – phew!) and then met up with Mom briefly for breakfast before leaving for
the day. Mom decided to stay on the boat and journey with several other passengers
and the crew along the canal and rivers to Middelburg, where the rest of us
would meet up with the boat at the end of the day.
The drive to Bruges took a bit less than 2 hours, and we got
off the bus at a drop-off point just south of the historical city center. I was
with the group going to tour the Halve Maan city brewery. Our local guide,
Hart, led us on a short walking tour of the city as we strolled towards the
brewery, where a member of the staff then took over to provide a wonderful and
comprehensive tour of the entire brewery as we meandered through the
purpose-built historic building, marveling at all of the various parts of the
old brewery and how the brewers managed to fit everything into such small
spaces! We also learned about the new brewery and technological innovations,
including the creation in 2016 of the beer pipeline that goes under the ground
from the brewery in the city to the bottling plant about 3km away. Amazing! Part
of the tour led us up to the rooftop, where we could see the chimney from the
drying kiln as well as a 360-degree view of Bruges.
The tour ended with a glass of beer on tap directly from the
storage tanks, so it was unfiltered and unpasteurized
I then headed off on my own to enjoy about 3 hours of free
time exploring the Medieval city of Bruges, winding through small cobblestone
streets, browsing in souvenir stores, and grabbing a chicken, cheese, and
tomato panini for a quick lunch-on-the-go. I had thought about trying to visit
the Groeninge Museum (another group did that for the main activity instead of
the brewery) but opted to prioritize climbing the bell tower in the central
square. Given the size of the tower steps, entry is limited to 70 people at a
time, so the entire experience of waiting and then climbing 366 steps to the
top and back down took about an hour. I happened to be in the drum room area
just in time for the ¾ hour chiming. The view from the top showed not only the
city but also the carillon bells.
By the time I was finished with the belfry, I only had about
1 hour until the group meet-up, so I decided not to try to visit the art museum
but instead to wander through more of the city center, seeking out the
large-scale public art installations that are part of the Bruges Triennial. We
had seen one of these pieces when we first approached the old city – a floating
wooden structure created to be a mobile school.
I was able to find five more of the artworks, although three
were definitely still in process of being installed, since the Triennial
technically doesn’t open until tomorrow. I captured images of several of them,
along with the explanatory placards. So cool!
The group met up again at 3pm to walk back to the coach and
then return to the ship, crossing over from Belgium into The Netherlands along
the way. I chatted with Mom as I unpacked from the day, and then we gathered
with others from the Smithsonian Journeys group in a portion of the Panorama
Lounge for the Captain’s Welcome Reception that preceded the “official” Welcome
Dinner. We ended up at a table in the far back left, which apparently was a
sort of black hole for the wait staff. At one point, I noticed that people up
near the front were already eating their first courses before we had even been
asked for our orders! This whole four-course meal thing is definitely not a
value-add for me… I finished off the day with yoga before bedtime.